By Tony Portelli
Having wandered aimlessly along the Brighton seafront, my friend and I were lured by the smell of rich tomato sauce coming from Alfresco’s kitchen. We were not quite prepared for the stunning panoramic views that met us on entrance, serving as a breathtaking appetiser. The brand new interior was clearly still a proud triumph for Giuseppe, the boss, though the sparkling chandelier and curved marble bar are certainly to be admired.
Our starter was served very swiftly, and I had yet to finish the complimentary olives! Nevertheless, the potted Scottish salmon was truly delicious. The taste of the smoked, locally caught prawns complimented the fresh fish and was finished perfectly with a good crunch of rustic Italian toast. I was genuinely impressed with the innovation of the menu, which clearly offered a modern twist on the well-known favourites. The deep fried salted cod balls, rolled in Italian breadcrumbs, were an original version of the worn out calamari option, and devilishly moreish when dipped in a good helping of garlic and almond aioli.
We had a relaxed interval whilst waiting for our mains, which allowed us to sip Pinot Blush and muse over the tattered ruins of the infamous West Pier. On a sunny day the view stretches to the chalky white cliffs which border the far edge of the Sussex coast.
The main courses are very generous. I treated myself to the local sirloin steak, rolled in a blitzed dried porcini dust, and served with shiitaki, enoki and grey oyster mushrooms. The Taleggio stuffed croquette potatoes were a delightful little surprise on the side, and the combination of the beef and rich mushroom jus was mouth-watering. My friend enjoyed the classic Alfresco dish, spaghetti with tiger prawns, crayfish, parsley and fresh red chilli, served with a liberal splash of white wine.
Having indulged in some of the finest ingredients on the menu, I skipped desert, but the selection of home-made ice creams did momentarily tempt me. Our friendly Italian waiter, Pasquale, sent us away with a little stash of Italian biscotti and mint studded chocolates, leaving us with a sweet taste all the same.
Alfresco offers a brilliantly original menu which is clearly thanks to its confident and experienced chef. The rustic Italian element of the cuisine grounds the modern reinvention of popular classics, although the signature spaghetti bolognaise and pizza margarita still have a place on the extensive menu. Children are also catered for with the option of half portions on all pasta dishes.
The real highlight of dining at this beachfront restaurant, however, is definitely its unparalleled location. Drawing in families, couples, or corporate businesses, the views were admired by everyone, and the best part is that it was all included in the price!
It is open seven days a week from 11 until last orders at 9.30pm.
Alfresco
Tel. +44 (0)1273 206523
Email. info@alfresco-brighton.co.uk
www.alfresco-brighton.co.uk/