By Laura Cartledge
Vines dripping with grapes hang overhead as I settle into my seat at Simply Seafood. Run by Christine and Claude Horeau and members of the family as well as their chef Tim, it was opened 12 years ago inspired by the couple’s love of seafood.
And until recently the restaurant in Westham on the outskirts of Eastbourne was better known as Horeaus. That is until they were approached by Channel 5 to undergo some tough love and a transformation from Restaurant Inspector Fernando Peire, the director of London's world-famous Ivy.
However it is not just the sign over the door which has changed. “They were here for a month” explains owner and host Christine Horeaus, “and it has made such a difference. We’ve had lots of interest and people phoning up which is great for a little hamlet like ours.”
Sitting in the airy conservatory and overlooking the beautiful garden it is hard to believe you are just in a hamlet. “At night when the candle flares are lit it does look like something from James Bond,” agrees Christine. The bright flowers and neoclassical statues create a tropical oasis which, when combined with their fresh dishes of vibrant food, work to transport you to a holiday resort and sunnier disposition.
Speaking of food my meal begins with a fantastic crab and mango salad, served with avocado mayonnaise. Other choices include filet of mackerel marinated in soy sauce, lime and chilli, or smoked haddock fishcakes. They also cater for people who don’t wish to dive straight into the seafood with a duck confit or local goats cheese with honey roasted figs.
However I am more than happy with my choice as the generous plate is packed with ample amounts of each ingredient. Unlike many other places which give you plenty of leaves and very little of everything else. Fresh, fruity and light is doesn’t disappoint the taste buds either and certainly worked to whet my appetite for more.
Luckily there is plenty to choose from including a whole host of seafood specials, ranging from steamed mussels to fresh Hastings scallops, and a list of main courses so extensive it makes me doubt there are many more fish in the sea. But once again it isn’t all from the deep blue as a fillet steak with béarnaise sauce and chicken breast served with leeks, bacon and lentils are also on offer.
After much deliberation I decide I can’t choose between the scallops or prawns so go for a dish which offers both with a spicy citrus dressing and rice. This dish really has the “wow factor.” Fragrant and sweet with fiery warmth underneath it is simply delicious. The succulent prawns and monkfish scallops providing a hearty base for the other flavours to dance on top of.
For desert you can choose from a list which includes classics like crème brulee, or something a bit more adventurous like the coconut and ginger sponge with toffee sauce. However, just as I am deliberating, Christine asks if I would like a special raspberry and lemon sponge made from fresh fruit that morning, and thankfully makes my mind up for me.
The sponge is light, drenched in devilishly sweet syrup and topped with a sizable scoop of vanilla ice-cream. With just a hint of lavender complimenting the subtle citrus edge it is like summer on a spoon.
A trip to Simply Seafood is like taking a mini break abroad. And it is clear to see that Claude has brought a touch of his time in the Seychelles to Westham. Combined with Christine’s attentive hosting skills my visit has been a delight, and it is reluctantly that I realise it is time to leave and head back into the dreary drizzle.
With a private room, with an open fire, Simply Seafood can also cater for any occasion. It can seat up to 35 persons comfortably and has menus to suit any budget.
Simply Seafood
4 High Street, Westham, Pevensey, East Sussex, BN24 5LZ Tel. 01323 741037
www.simply-seafood.co.uk